The road less trampled: Omak, Okanogan, Tonasket, and Republic

With the North Cascades behind us we drop into the high desert of Eastern Washington. Temperatures will reach and exceed 100 degrees in the next couple of days. At State Route 97 we head north through the towns of Omak and Okanogan. From here on out it’s small dusty towns with the road leading right through their respective downtowns. Omak marks the entrance into the Colville Indian Reservation.

The reservation is large, about the size of Delaware. It was twice its present size before the northern part was taken back. We’ll be traveling through that northern part from Tonasket to Kettle Falls with a peculiar town called Republic dead square in the middle. Middle of nowhere really. If I ever wanted not to be found I think I’ll go to Republic. I mentioned that to someone in the town and they said that there’s a few characters up there that don’t want to be found.

Back at Omak we gas up. The station is Indian run. Some of these Indians have classic Native American features. One young girl comes in with round cheeks, big eyes, and black hair parted down the middle. I have a post card with a similar face, only she lived in the 1800's. Amazing. Their speech also has an Indian sound; a low pitch with a unique cadence that is unmistakably Indian. When we leave Omak for Okanogan we leave the reservation for the time being.

In Okanogan an air raid siren went off like the town was under attack or a tornado was coming. Turned out to be a call from the all-volunteer fire department. One fireman raced up, jumped out of his truck and hopped into a waiting fire engine. Fires rage in these parts. We'll see a massive brush fire on our way home in a couple of days. Though the terrain may be diverse in this big country, the rainfall is universally in the five to 10 inch range. It's very dry out there.