Nepselem: We share our traditions

Having been to Inchelium twice in one morning, it was time to go. From a side street with potholes our
road became a two-lane highway. Through thick forest we cross a pass and dropped down into Nepselem. Old homesteads and wide open fields mark this territory.

Nepselem means large flat meadow and there’s plenty of that here. For having a population of just 236, Nepselem appears much bigger with neighborhoods, cross streets, gas station, repair shops, churches, and a fire house. And there is the cemetery which I can’t find after circling the town a couple of times.

I stop in at the fire station and I’m immediately approached by a uniformed woman. She knows what I want. It seems everyone who’s looking for Chief Joseph’s grave stops by the fire station for directions.

Chief Joseph and some 800 Nez Perce were chased across five states and 1,100 mile after refusing to be relocated to a reservation in Idaho. Just 40 miles from the Canadian border and freedom, he surrendered.

“From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever,” he’s quoted as saying.

They say he surrendered because he wouldn’t leave the weak and aged behind. Chief Moses invited Chief Joseph to the Colville Indian Reservation and he went. It wasn’t a good fit. In 1904, when the

doctor confirmed Chief Joseph was dead, the cause of death given was “a broken heart.”

The rodeo was out of town and down the road from the Pow Wow. Neither event had started. I stopped and took a few pictures. A woman came up.

“If you’re only taking pictures you can enter,” she said nicely.

“Excuse this stupid question, but are WE ok to be here?” I asked.

She laughed and said, “Oh yes, we share our traditions.”