Colville: Welcome to the Reservation

Kettle Falls turned out to be a remarkable place of mountains, valleys, forests, and small towns. Then
there was Lake Roosevelt; huge and wide with hardly a boat on it. Where is everyone? This area marks the farthest point east on our giant loop. Looking at the map of Washington we’d be near the upper right corner. They call this the Columbia Highlands.

We hit the road very early the next morning. The air was cooled by the rain and the new day promised to be a good one. We’d travel southward down the length of Lake Roosevelt. The night before, Michele pointed out that we could cut over the lake on a ferry and thus save travel time. I looked down and saw the words “free ferry.” Good eye Michele. After 27 years of marriage I didn’t even know she could read a map.

Not a car on the road but plenty of deer and one coyote. People live a very rural life here. The ponderosa pine with its long slender needles grows here in abundance. This tree is a shade lighter than the Douglas fir and western hemlock we have in Bothell. Its appearance makes these woods even more special. At Gifford the ferry waits and we board. With just two cars to carry it takes us to Inchelium on the other side.

We pass a welcome sign with a list of 12 Indian tribes. Several of the names listed have attached themselves to prominent towns found in eastern Washington: Okanogan, Colville, Wenatchi, Methow (a valley), and Nespelem. There is also the mention of the Nez Perce, an Oregon tribe. In the town of Nespelem is the grave of Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce.

Inchelium is in the Colville Indian Reservation. It’s early and nothing stirs in town. There’s no casino here. These Indians work for a living and their homes are rough as are the streets and businesses. I assume we’re heading west on the road we’re on and blow through town. A half our later I realize that we’ve taken the wrong road. We head back but now my people need a pit stop.

Back again in Inchelium we stop into a small store. The shelves are mostly barren of products. The toilet, located behind a curtain, overflows on first use. They (my family) all turn around and head toward me at the front counter. I’m standing there embarrassed about the ruse to use their facilities. I grab some ice and walk to the counter. I know I’ll

get a positive response and the girl doesn’t disappoint. Over the top nice. I tell her about my mistake and that I must have missed the signage. She laughs and says, “welcome to the reservation.” I confirm with her the correct road to Nepselem.

“Oh, are you going to the rodeo?” she asks.

“There’s a rodeo?” I said.

“Oh yes, there’s a big rodeo and Pow Wow today.” She said. “I’m going this afternoon.”

We hop back in the car. I remind the kids that often those who have the least give the most.